Highlighting the newest ingredient innovations launched since March 2022, the awards will honor the best Innovation Zone ingredients along with the best Spotlight On formulated ingredients. The Innovation Zone provides an invaluable snapshot of some of the most innovative new ingredients and formulations to hit the market. Meanwhile, the event’s Spotlight On dedicated product displays will focus on formulated ingredients related to this year’s chosen product categories: Healthy Skin and Makeup.

Twenty ingredients have been shortlisted, each in with a chance of scooping the prestigious title of Innovation Zone Best Active Ingredient and Innovation Zone Best Functional Ingredient. Meanwhile, more than 30 entries will be displayed in this year’s Spotlight On feature and considered for the Spotlight On Formulation Award. The winners will be announced on Wednesday, November 2 at 17:15 live at the show as it returns to the Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC).

APAC Trends Driving Demand

Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group and Innovation Zone Award judge spoke about the current Asia Pacific (APAC) trends that are driving demand for sustainable and nutrient-rich ingredients, including a greater focus on traceability as well as the continued popularity of natural and organic ingredients. He revealed that a boom in supplier concept formulations was being driven by a need to support brands’ product development and the increasing clinical focus, in favor of efficacy that is supported by science.

“In order for the winning ingredients to meet the needs of the industry, innovation, novelty, the use of technology and invention are my top concerns,” said Tilaar. “The focus of this year’s assessment is also on the growing consumer awareness of sustainability issues, so ingredient producers must demonstrate not only technological innovations but also how ingredients are produced using environmentally friendly processes that have an impact on society.

He continued, “Two topics that fascinate me this year are neurocosmetics and microbiome. The use of ingredients with biotech materials as part of their components is beginning to replace the cosmetic industry’s reliance solely on chemical-based properties. The use of cosmetics with the advantages to human health and senses is combined in the emerging field of neurocosmetics.”

Fellow judges of this year’s Awards include: Dr. Oliver Hofmann, in-cosmetics Asia 2022 Official Technical Advisor and Technical Director, Shieling Laboratories; Dr. Awanthi De Silva, NPD Lead (Senior Chemist), Moorebank aerosol fillers; John Jimenez, Senior Researcher, Belcorp; Kilala Tilaar, CEO, Martha Tilaar Group; Muriel Pujos, technical and scientific director, skincare, Coty Monaco; Pi Hyun Jung, aka Director Pi, The Phi Essential; Ranelle Anderson, technical director and co-founder, Ausmetix Pty Ltd; Seongmin (Mike) Sohn, CEO & Representative Consultant, REACH24H Consulting Group, Korea; and Stacey Fraser, co-founder, products director, Sage Collective. 

Active Ingredient Award 

Shortlisted in the active ingredient category are the following:

Caressense biofunctional by Ashland Singapore: A phytofermented extract from fresh and organic jasmine flowers, sustainably grown in Provence, and inspired by research on the connection between “skin and emotions” and “science of love”. The natural bioactive activates skin sensors of touch, the piezos, to release “feel-good” and anti-aging molecules for a wellbeing and well-aging benefits.

DST-DX by Cellicon Lab: the first targeted skin-lightener that is designed to target the melanocyte – a highly differentiated cell that produces a pigment melanin inside melanosomes. It contains one of the most potent tyrosinase inhibitors, even more potent than hydroquinone.

CutiGuard CLR by CLR Berlin: Based on the extremophile red alga Galdieria sulphuraria, CutiGuard CLR constitutes a refined approach to the first signs of skin aging. It transfers the adaptivity and resilience of Galdieria sulphuraria to a highly effective, natural active ingredient that protects the skin in stressful environments.

Rootness Awake by Clariant: An extract from the roots of sweet potato that have been cultivated in aeroponic conditions thanks to the environmental-friendly plant milking technology, that allows direct stimulation of the roots to produce active molecules. It targets the main mechanisms of action responsible for dark circles and under-eye bags, improving eye contour brightness and stiffness (+95% after only 7 days) and a decreasing puffiness (-30% after seven days).

NovoRetin by Mibelle Biochemistry: Based on mastic, an aromatic resin that comes from a tree which exclusively grows on the Greek island of Chios. NovoRetin serves as an ideal plant-based retinol alternative, providing both strong anti-aging effects and exceptional benefits for acne-prone skin.

Myramaze Essence by RAHN: A sensocosmetic active ingredient that revives and vitalizes the skin. It reinstates the skin’s natural radiance and relaxes skin and mind. It is proven to balance facial hydration, reduces redness, brightens, reduces roughness and increases gloss. In addition, the skin barrier is strengthened, and the skin becomes more elastic. The lips become plumper and wrinkles on the lips as well as on the skin are reduced.

Elaya Renova – the Hair Tensegrist by Vytrus Biotech: A natural active that boosts hair tensegrity, an arquitecture-inspired concept which considers scalp, hair follicle, and hair shaft where all parts are interconnected and the whole hair system is revitalized with a plant strategy.

Functional Ingredient Award 

Shortlisted in the functional ingredient category are:

Antaron Soja Glyceride by Ashland Singapore: A novel nature-derived, biodegradable water resistance film former and SPF booster for sun care formulations that also provides transfer resistance for color cosmetics. Antaron Soja Glyceride is non-GMO, vegan suitable, and compatible with both organic and inorganic ingredients.

Z-COTE Sheer by BASF: a naturally derived liquid dispersion of Zinc Oxide. This highly effective, inorganic, broad-spectrum UV filter has excellent photostability and allows for the creation of lightweight formulas that protect the skin. Z-COTE Sheer offers a low-whitening effect, so it’s applicable for a wide range of sun and skin care applications, including daily wear products for all skin tones. With its ease of use and high compatibility, it offers excellent flexibility for formulators and works in harmony with other natural ingredients.

SeaBalance 2000 by Carbonwave: The world’s first seaweed-based cosmetic emulsifier. It delivers performance like that of a synthetic emulsifier while being completely natural. Made from upcycled Sargassum, it prevents 450kg of CO₂e with each ton of seaweed used.

Tegosoft Lo MB by Evonik (Thailand): A natural replacement for mineral oil with similar sensory in skin care products. The medium spreading emollient is fully based on renewable sources and produced by a unique, eco-efficient process. Its excellent wetting properties make it especially suitable for color cosmetics.

Isonaturane 12 by Global Bioenergies: The trademark registered by Global Bioenergies to designate its naturally sourced isododecane product. Isododecane is one of the most important molecules used in the cosmetics industry, both in the make-up segment, where it is the only molecule able to deliver longwear properties, and in skincare and haircare, where it endows textures with lightness and softness.

SolaPure Glo by Hallstar: All-natural SolaPure Glo leverages curcumin’s benefits to improve sun protection’s SPF and PFA performance, control hyperpigmentation and promote overall skin wellbeing. It can be used in any cosmetic formulation to provide youthful radiance and glow.

Vitacel CS 30 Oat by J. Rettenmaier & Söhne: An upcycled by-product of the food industry. Using oat straw, no food is wasted in this product. With a high technological procedure, it is possible to upcycle this waste material to a high-quality product with an average particle size of 30 µm. This low particle size leads to a fine soft-touch powder with high water and oil binding capacities.

Dekamulen Power’Feel by Jan Dekker exclusively at IMCD: a natural derived cellulose-based emulsifier offering very good emulsifying performance (up to 20%-30% of oil), capable of emulsifying a broad range of emollient types. It provides a nice sensoriality – light and silky textures, a high spreadability, with a quick break, without a peeling effect, at low use level (1-1.5%). Dekamulen Power’Feel is the ideal solution to formulate all kinds of emulsions, especially light and fluid textures, perfectly adapted for face creams, face serums (skin care) & BB creams (color care). In addition, the low color means there is no impact on the color of the final product.

HY-N Solution by Nabsolute: A delivery system with functional benefits. It is a patented nano-modified hyaluronic acid grafted with poly-isopropyl acrylamide. It offers a range of functional benefits including moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, whitening and anti-ageing properties.

Sharomix 699 by Sharon Laboratories: A broad spectrum preservative blend with a minimalist composition, suitable for cosmetic applications inspired by clean beauty. Both of its components are listed as food preservatives and represent concrete alternatives to traditional preservation proposals. Completely water-soluble, it is also suitable for baby care and wet-wipes applications. While its high biodegradability makes its an eco-friendly preservative.