But when our teams actually conducted the studies, they found that 4% was actually the kind of optimal level that was required in shampoos because sulphates are the best single ingredient cleanser. It was just that people became accustomed to wanting so much foam and suddenly sulphates were used at very high levels. So having 4% of sulphates is the perfect amount to effectively cleanse and clean your hair, remove dirt, grease, and product residue. So I think it was definitely a very proud science moment, when we launched this 4% cleanser.”

Kilner explains, “Our more recent launch has been our Sulphate 4% cleanser for hair and body. Average brands were using around 12 to 13% of sulphates leading to extreme foaming to which is where they were going wrong. 

But when our teams actually conducted the studies, they found that 4% was actually the kind of optimal level that was required in shampoos because sulphates are the best single ingredient cleanser. It was just that people became accustomed to wanting so much foam and suddenly sulphates were used at very high levels. So having 4% of sulphates is the perfect amount to effectively cleanse and clean your hair, remove dirt, grease, and product residue. So I think it was definitely a very proud science moment, when we launched this 4% cleanser.”

Back to basics: why education was important

Right from the outset they disrupted the market with transparency, by educating consumers extensively about the ingredients on the website, which was almost refreshing, “We took a lot of inspiration from the healthcare industry where if you have a headache, you go to the pharmacy to buy an ingredient. There isn’t a vast grey area. Whereas in the beauty industry if you wanted to buy a vitamin C serum the range of price points is huge. And I think that’s because transparency has never existed in factors like the ingredient used, and the percentage of the ingredient, like how it is in medicine.”

They also decided to have an online launch (which was a very smart move): But the other reason just hits home, “Why we always preferred selling online was because it’s easier to educate the consumer and give out correct information. When you buy a product online – the chances are that you are visiting the product page and actually reading that information before making a purchase, which is challenging when you’re buying a product at a store.”

Strategy is key 

While science is at the core of everything that they do, the price point and packaging have scored high and added to their appeal. Nicola has a unique perspective on the price point, “I think one of our biggest principles has always been that the price point doesn’t define luxury. Actually, in my opinion luxury is about authenticity. For us, it was always around actually talking about the efficacy of the products and ingredients used.”

She further explains, “We also took a lot of inspiration from the healthcare industry where if you have a headache, you go to the pharmacy to buy an ingredient. There isn’t a vast grey area. Whereas in the beauty industry if you wanted to buy a vitamin C serum the range of price points is huge. And I think that’s because transparency has never existed in factors like the ingredient used, and the percentage of the ingredient, like how it is in medicine.”

So how far has the brand come in achieving this goal of educating consumers? “Up until 10 years ago niacinamide wasn’t a well-known ingredient. Only people who were really in the beauty industry would know about it. Whereas ingredients like retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acids are ingredients that people have known for much longer.