Record economic growth attracts investors from all over the world to Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. Tourism has also experienced a boom in recent years. A million people visit the country every year to experience its beauty – and observe its well-protected community of mountain gorillas.

This renaissance has come about thanks to Paul Kagame, the country’s president of the past 10 years. The former rebel leader has succeeded in reconciling his country and reversing its fortunes – but at what price?

Any political opposition is muzzled and critical reporting severely punished. Some journalists have even been thrown in jail. Modernization programs in Kigali are partly fueled through the expropriation of property. And despite the superfical glossiness, 40 per cent of the Rwandan population still lives below the poverty line.

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